Westward (Party) — September 18-19, 1805
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Virtual Explorer Maps and Photos |
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The Story |
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Clark's Map This is a map of the Hungry Creek area of the Lewis and Clark route. On the right side is their campsite of September 17th and on the left is Lewis' campsite of September 21st. |
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Modern Map Overlay The Clark map has been rotated to account for magnetic declination and a modern map is overlayed. Notice the considerable distortion of the topography in Clark's map. This makes modern efforts to locate the trail and campsites very difficult. |
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| It is difficult to get a perspective of where Lewis and Clark said the ridge terminated on the Lolo Trail. This photo is looking easward at Sherman Peak (far background), Willow Ridge, and Bowl Butte (near background) where the party went into Hungry Creek. The ridge nearest in the photo is east of Rocky Ridge. |
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| This is a panoramic view of what Lewis and Clark each saw separately when they reached the point where the ridge terminated and they could see the great expanse of the Nez Perce Prairie. The prairie is difficult to see because of the great distance and the ever present haze. In this photo, the glint of the sun from the metal roofs of large agriculture buildings can be seen as bright "specks" in the purple-blue haze above the ridges. |
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| The Lochas Crags are stoney, snow-covered mountains south of the Lolo Trail and across the Lochsa River. These crags are visible for many miles along the trail and were used as a landmark by earlier travelers. |
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| Hiking in the upper end of Hungry Creek is a cake-walk compared to the middle and lower ends. The stream is small and very clear at this location. Fed by snow melt most of the year, the water is very cold and painful to cross. This photo shows the author looking southward down into the creek from the Lewis and Clark trail. |
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| After crossing Hungry and Fish Creeks, the party crossed the ridge north of Mex Mountain and traveled down a ridge to Eldorado Creek. This meadow is the first one to be reached on Eldorado and was a camping place on their return trip in 1806. The Forest Service has given the name Salmon Trout Camp to this location. |
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September 18 and 19, 1805 were undoubtedly the most desperate times for the explorers. Food was gone and the Bitterroot Mountain winter was rapidly approaching. The night and morning of September 16 brought wet snow and cold. This was the most bitter time of their "Bitter Crossing". The morning of Sept. 18, Clark went ahead with six hunters to scout the route to safety and to secure game to feed the starving expedition. Lewis followed with the main party at a slower pace.
Commentary:
Clark and the six hunters proceeded quickly on from Indian Grave Camp westward over the dividing ridge until they reached the area of Willow Ridge and Bowl Butte. It was here that Clark saw an "emence Plain and leavel Countrey to the S. W. & West at a great distance." He was seeing the Nez Perce Prairie.
They were greatly encouraged but still had a long way to go before reaching safety. They saw no sign of deer and nothing else and still had many weary miles of fallen timber and steep sidehills to travel. Clark followed the Nez Perce trail down into Hungry Creek where he camped the evening of Sept. 18. He followed Hungry Creek westward to where it turns sharply north and then passed over the mountains southward through Fish Creek Meadows and then westward until reaching his camp on Cedar Creek the evening of Sept. 19th. On Hungry Creek, they found a horse which they used for breakfast and left part of it for the main party.
Clark remarks that the temperature increase is very noticable as they decrease in elevation. I have observed this effect many times in traveling from the dividing ridge down to the valleys of Lolo and Eldorado Creeks. The Nez Perce used the Lolo Trail in the summer to excape the heat of the river valleys and gather berrys and roots.
In the two days of travel by Clark, he reports covering between 54 and 62 miles. He actually covered over 36 miles of very difficult trail.
Leading the main party, Lewis followed Clark the morning of September 18th. The reached the area of Sherman Peak that evening and "encamped on the side of a steep mountain." The site of this camp is still in dispute. There was not water at the site so the party had to go down a steep raviene for about 1/2 mile to get it. They were so hungry at this site that they ate bears oil and about 20 pounds of tallow candles from their supplies. While Clark reported covering 32 miles this day, Lewis reports only 18 miles.
Lewis reached a high point the morning of September 19th and reported: "we to our inexpressable joy discovered a large tract of Prairie country lying to the S. W. and widening as it appeared to extend to the W." This was the same scene reported by Clark the previous day. The party eventually reached Hungry Creek and went westward along it to their campsite "on the Stard. side of it in a little raviene."
The next day, the main party started late and didn't reach the Sept. 19th camp of Clark.
The travel along Hungry Creek was extremely difficult. Clark's description is very accurate: "the road was excessively dangerous along this creek being a narrow rockey path generally on the side of the steep precipice, from which in many places if ether man or horse were precipitated they would inevitably be dashed in pieces. Fraziers horse fell from this road in the evening, and roled with his load near a hundred yards into the Creek. we all expected that the horse was killed but to our astonishment when the load was taken off him he arose to his feet & appeard to be but little injured, in 20 minutes he proceeded with his load. this was the most wonderfull escape I ever witnessed, the hill down which he roled was almost perpendicular and broken by large irregular and broken rocks."
From the Journals:
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